Rogan Printing (Nirmika Rogan Art) with Brass Molds: A Blend of Tradition and Precision. Textile printing India | Kutch
What is Rogan Printing?
Rogan printing, a contemporary adaptation of the centuries-old Rogan art, replaces freehand painting with brass molds to craft intricate, uniform designs. This innovative technique, known as Nirmika Rogan Art or Nirmika Rogan Chhap, ensures consistency across pieces, making it ideal for textile printing requiring repetitive patterns.
Rogan art encompasses three distinct styles:
- Traditional Rogan: The original freehand technique using a metal stylus.
- Nirmika Rogan: Utilizes brass molds for precise, repeatable designs.
- Varnika Rogan (Varnika Rogan Chhap): Focuses on vibrant, layered colorwork.
While traditional Rogan remains widely practiced by artisans in Madhapur, Kutch (Gujarat), Nirmika and Varnika styles are exceptionally rare. Today, Ashish Kansara, a master artist from Madhapar, stands as the sole practitioner preserving all three forms, safeguarding their legacy through his expertise.
The Process of Rogan Print (Nirmika Rogan Art)
- Crafting the Rogan Paste:
The process begins by boiling castor oil for over 12 hours to create a thick, glue-like base. Natural pigments and chalk powder are then blended into the cooled paste to form vibrant, durable colors. - Designing the Brass Molds:
Skilled sunar (goldsmiths) carve intricate patterns onto brass sheets using the Aari cutting technique—a method traditionally used in jewelry making. Each mold is meticulously welded to align its edges with the engraved design, ensuring crisp imprints. - Transferring the Patterns:
The Rogan paste is carefully poured into the brass molds. Artists then press the filled mold onto fabric using a wooden stick, allowing the paste to adhere seamlessly. This step replaces the freehand strokes of traditional Rogan, enabling rapid replication of complex motifs. - Drying and Setting:
The printed fabric is sun-dried, a crucial step that solidifies the paste and locks in the colors, resulting in bold, long-lasting designs.
Why is Rogan Printing Unique?
- Efficiency and Uniformity: Ideal for mass-producing textiles like sarees, scarves, and home decor, this method ensures identical patterns with minimal variation.
- Artistic Versatility: Bridges traditional craftsmanship with modern demand, preserving intricate motifs while meeting commercial needs.
- Cultural Preservation: Ashish Kansara’s mastery of all three Rogan styles underscores his pivotal role in preventing these rare techniques from fading into obscurity.
Rogan printing exemplifies how innovation can breathe new life into ancient traditions. Through artisans like Kansara, the rich heritage of Kutch’s Rogan art continues to thrive, blending history with contemporary artistry.
